The Long Road South v.5

The glorious weather we'd had all trip so far continued on the Monday, but this morning brought offshore winds and a nice clean 3ft swell, so back to Beacon we headed with the promise of a cranking beachbreak on our minds.

We rocked up to find it just as predicted, along with another crew of friends who were traveling the coast hopping into their wetties. Our friend Elliot Gray, the local Boardriders president who lives just down the road and had invited us there, was already on his way out, dropping off a friend who was surfing in the Bells trials. He gave us the thumbs up and it was on. Unfortunately with a fast-rising by the time he came back the sets, which were still cranking, were pretty far apart. I'd had a good time surfing with everyone but was about done, so came in to warm up and kip it down.

I woke to Sera coming in and asking "Isn't that the guy in Walking on Water?" and sure enough, directly behind our car, there was Tom Curren with his son and friends suiting up. He's a notoriously shy one, so I left off any approach despite the fact that my dad knows him well, and just moved my perch from the sleepy front seat to the viewing platform and watched the former world champ and my all-time favourite surfer apply his unmatched style to the stunning waves. I had to pinch myself a couple times to make sure I wasn't still asleep on that seat.

After reconvening in the car park with Elliot, Nick Ward and some other local grommets we took off for the mythical land of Barwon Heads. Apparently it held a sweet organic coffee shop with all sorts of treats. Turns out it did, and much more. We cruised in the sun, drinking unbelievable coffee and wondering at how a sweet little village like this could exist. A bunch of nice little boutiques, cafes and bookshops lined the streets, while directly across from us a very intoxicated (at 9am) seaman opened his fishing/art store which was entirely fascinating. Moral of the story: go to Barwon Heads, it will not disappoint.

The rest of the day held home-cooked haloumi stacks, a very chilled afternoon and an evening surf at Winkipop, where Lisa came to meet us, after leaving her temporary Melbourne residence and joining us for the rest of the journey. It was only 1ft max, but still super fun. Lisa, who: a) had a massive moon boot on her leg, and had been cooped up and landlocked for 4 weeks already; and b) is crazy adventurous and has way too much energy; decided that would be the perfect time for her first venture back into the water, so Sera and Janie helped her hobble down the massive stair case, get changed and wade out over a very long rock shelf, into the most shallow water imaginable, about 5 minutes before dark set in. Craziness! Lisa then proceeded to take Koffo's board and ride prone straight into the shallow reef on it. Suffice to say, she had the time of her life.

We had Daniel and Glen, two of Steve's friends, come along for the ride as well and we all headed back home for a big pizza cook up, followed by the must-do screening of Point Break, while at Bells waiting for the 50-year swell. Has anyone seen the end of the movie lately? Unimaginably ridiculous, but oh-so-entertaining.

Note: So my Nikon FM has a very large light-leak down one side. Sometime that works in favour, other times it's just annoying. The camera must have seen a lot of sun this day, because it features way too heavily!